Why the skin care industry is broken
I love this industry. Skin care, facials, all things esthetics is my passion and my thing. So that’s why it breaks my heart to tell you that it’s broken. But it is. I’m going to call out exactly why below. And it frustrates me that while I can call out these problems, I don’t yet have solutions. I’m warning you of this in advance because I am nothing, if not transparent - sometimes to a fault. I don’t have answers because I haven’t found them yet. I believe they will come in time, but at the moment I don’t know enough to know how to solve all of them. Only that I’ve recently had some clarity about what’s broken and why.
I’m not like most estheticians. This became obvious during my esthetics programs, both for my basic license and my master license. My classrooms were filled with mostly 20 somethings; some younger. I estimate that about 20% of us that were in, or close to, our 40s (or older) and maybe 10% were college graduates. I had a whole career (which feels like a completely different life) before becoming a licensed master esthetician. My undergraduate degree happens to be in Business. I spent the better part of 15+ years working for corporate America.
The connecting theme of all of my corporate years at Microsoft, T-Mobile, and Expedia was that I worked as a go-between from my company to other businesses; some small and some industry giants. In 2015 after my divorce, I left my corporate life, and in 2020 I became licensed in esthetics. If you want to know about the journey in between - this will get you up to speed.
I am telling you all of the above so you know that when I say this industry is broken, that I have the experience and credentials to make such a claim. When you spend over a decade and a half working with small business owners you get a feel for what works and what doesn't. I don’t really care what industry it is - each one is nuanced in its own way, but there are some consistent elements that stand out when I think of the most successful companies I’ve worked with across time.
When I found esthetics as my passion I was delirious with enthusiasm. I had FINALLY found my thing. So, to get into the workforce, and start working as an esthetician, only to realize the mess I had stepped into, was like was a punch to the gut. My resume isn’t deep in esthetics. It has only been 3 years, but it’s enough to clarify a few things that make me uncomfortable.
There is a significant amount of contradictory information available and no shortage of confusing consumer and medical-level scientific documentation. Most articles in consumer-accessible magazines have dermatologists or well known estheticians weighing in on a topic, but even then, there’s a profound lack of science.
Esthetics education is not standardized. Some schools are better than others. And the price range varies significantly. For example, you can take a masters program that’s 100% theoretical or you can take a masters program that’s hands-on with a working clinic. It honestly comes down to what you can afford. My 1 year of schooling for my two licenses cost me almost $30K. That’s the equivalent average of one year of University. I could have done it for a third of the price, but hands-on, quality education matters to me.
There’s no requirement for industry continuing education. I love learning. It’s at the core of who I am. I have multiple advanced certifications in this field. I’ve also worked with estheticians who have been in the industry for over a decade and have no interest in taking classes. So if the esthetician is not self motivated to learn and/or if their company isn’t providing/requiring continuing education, they are likely not staying up to speed. And the speed of this business is lightening fast.
The education / experience estheticians DO have is highly undervalued. I took a job in a med spa that started at minimum wage plus tips and commission. Most people don’t associate tipping with a med spa and commission was only as good as I was busy. When I started, I literally could have gotten paid more to work at Target and I was putting a laser to someone’s skin. (I think this is because of 2 & 7.)
Almost every employee you talk to that works for a skin care business is paid on commission. As an end consumer, it’s difficult to find someone to talk to who isn’t being paid to sell you on something.
There are people on social media clamoring for their chance in the spotlight, regardless of whether what they are saying is actually good for your skin or not. (And how would they know anyway? They can’t see or touch your skin through their phone.) It can sometimes be hard to sort out those that actually know what they are talking about, from those that are truly in it for the money/attention/follows/likes.
Because of the youth and relative inexperience of most newly licensed estheticians, who might be working their first "real” job, they don’t know enough to push back when things don’t make sense. It takes a few jobs before you figure out what works and what doesn’t, meaning progress is slow and, there’s no real pressure for the business to change, because someone eager and new is ready to take the place of the wiser one who has moved on.
The industry is filled with people who were never trained in management. They are great doctors, excellent estheticians, maybe even good business people, but that doesn’t mean they know how to handle HR issues or prioritize the culture of what they are creating. For the most part when a technician is with a client, it’s a 1:1 experience. Depending on where you end up, instead of the culture and compensation model creating a collaborative environment, it can create a competitive one where the client rarely wins.
Estheticians have a mandated “scope” of what they are and are not allowed to do which differs by state. The title of Master Esthetician only exists in some states. Some services are not licensed at all or licensed out of state, for example electrolysis here in WA. For those services not included/covered in a formal program, there is no certification or testing on a broad scale. If an esthetician feels like they have mastered a technique, they can charge others to train them on it. Each state has a different licensing model, testing structure, and different hourly requirements for licensure. WA State is 750 hours of training for basics plus 450 more for your master license. By way of comparison, it’s 1,550 hours in Wisconsin and 260 hours in Florida.(Source)
As I started this piece, I had a vague idea of where it was going but now that it’s in black and white, I’m a bit overwhelmed by the collection of gaps I’ve noted, most of which I’m fairly certain the general public doesn’t know or understand.
I feel compelled to repeat that I LOVE this industry. I love that it’s about caring for one’s self; investing in one’s wellness. I love that it has the power to transform lives. This also is not meant to convey that the person you’re working with isn’t amazing at their job, practicing safely, very knowledgeable and 100% honest. It IS to say that not everyone has these qualities because it isn’t built into the education/ industry. It’s up to the individual to hold themselves to a certain standard, and the business they work for to enforce it.
I also started this piece by saying that I personally didn’t have all the answers. I don’t. But I can make small changes that will hopefully have a bigger ripple effect. The first is calling the industry out on the ways that it’s falling short. My family rolls their eyes because I say this so much but information is power.
The second is to address #5 on the list above. As such, I’m opening up my books to offer Skin Care Service Consultations to people who need an unbiased second opinion. I don’t work for a med spa any more. You’ll be paying me for my time and expertise but not for a referral. I will help you understand your goals, what you’re looking to achieve and what choices you have in the current field of options. We will whittle down those choices until you feel confident you’ve chosen YOUR specific path, not the one your provider will get paid the most to take you down.
Maybe your person is the best and most trusted. I am not here to judge or critique their experience or expertise. I am here to help the end consumer, you, to feel confident in making informed decisions, without anyone’s compensation model, monthly goals or personal agendas getting in the way.
If you’re interested, you can book your appointment here.
